Luka Maurer’s aim is clear : the exploration and adaptation of the traditional three piece suit. Maurer, the winner of the 2011 Best Fashion Design Collection, HEAD, Geneva, believes male clothing has not changed since the 19th century, though our expectations have. By revisiting the well-founded elegance of the past and adapting it to the modern man, Luka Maurer delivers a wearable, sophisticated and bold AW12/13 collection, which comprises a strong, sensual dimension.
We didn’t. We had. Why?
Paula Knorr’s graduate collection “Skin” centres around the abstract representation of the naked human form. Details of individual body outlines and different surface qualities offer diverse sources of inspiration. Shapes, colours and textures, when taken out of their original context, present new and strange attractions. Despite all deforming abstraction even the dissected nudeness still provides a sensual and erotic character which is typified by this collection.
Feminine elegance harmoniously juxtaposed with cool and refreshing cuts form the basis of the Berlin based label Glaw. Nostalgic nuances of times gone by reflect the architectural, artistic and literary inspirations of founders Jesko Wilke and Poweleit Maria, recent graduates of the Berlin branch of the International Academy of Fashion ESMOD. The feel and colour palate of their AW 12/13 collection recalls the work of painter David Friedrich, remodelling traditional silhouettes and forms through tie-dyed leathers and hearty reds, and updating them to a modern context.
Upon completing her studies, at the Berlin Weißensee School of Art, Isabel Vollrath received several awards including the “Go-East-Scholarship” of the DAAD, allowing her to spend two months at the Stieglitz-Academy for Art and Design in St. Petersburg. Innovative as well as artistic attempts, design-critical questions and conflicts concerning her job and business as fashion designer, confront her personal, varied experiences in Russia. Linguistic barriers and disorientation, loneliness and longing for familiar people and faces made her arrival to be a true “cultural shock”. A manifold mix of materials and sculptural elements determine the general view of the collection.
A rising star of the Asian fashion design world, Max.Tan has been considered one of the most significant emerging Asian talents since its debut at Modafabriek in 2010. Max.tan’s designs explore minimalism, maintaining somber colours and carefully tailored unconventional shapes. Though constantly evolving with every collection, the work centres around the deconstruction of pre-established social boundaries and identities.